Monday, January 16, 2012

Toy Airplanes

            The Marsh Family has left Africa with no cuts, scrapes, amoebic dysentery, or run-ins with the law.  Brenda behaved herself and she actually made quite a few new friends; maybe it’s something about the air over here.  And you all were worried… (Okay, I was too!)
            After the Serengeti, we headed to Zanzibar for a much needed three-day beach vacation.  We were all happy to not have to set an alarm and drive in a car for three days.  The flight over to Zanzibar was interesting to say the least.  We flew out of the “air strip” in the Serengeti, which was just a long dirt road serving as a runway.   When the planes took off, we were all drowning in the dust that encircled us.  Also, I am not even sure these aircrafts can even be classified as planes.  They were tiny one-prop planes with twelve seats, which I am pretty sure they sell at Toys R’ Us.  We flew to Arusha first, which was about a 30 minute flight, and I was gripping my sister’s hand most of the way.  Surprisingly, my mom, who hates flying, was perfectly fine.  I, on the other hand, wanted to take her whole bottle of Xanax.  We flew from Arusha to Zanzibar in another toy plane, but this flight was two and a half hours.  I am not quite sure how this plane held enough fuel for two and a half hours, but some things are better left unknown.
            If anyone had more anxiety than me about this flight, then it was the pilot.  My dad sat next to him in the cockpit because the toy plane was full and it was considered a passenger seat.  The pilot was biting his nails and biting a portion of his wrist and sucking on it the whole flight.  At the same time, he was reading the emergency handbook – what to do if the fuel ran out, what to do in a rainstorm, etc.  I guess we should be happy that he was actually reading the handbook; better late than never!  I know what you’re all thinking, “Thank God it was Brett sitting next to the pilot, not Brenda or Robyn.”  Robyn was sitting behind the pilot and could see him biting his nails, which grossed her out, but she was unaware of the emergency handbook.  I’m pretty sure that could be an SNL skit – someone call up NBC. 
            Zanzibar was beautiful and relaxing.  We lounged on the beach and hardly anyone was there.  We basically had the beach to ourselves – white sand and the water was so warm, it was like a bath.  We also had really great seafood, which was nice for me because I can’t get that in Uganda.  I could have used another day or two at the beach, but unfortunately, we all set out for home after three days.  I was sad to say bye to my family, but I am so happy that I could see them and that they made the trip to visit me. 
            The flight back was uneventful, and I thankfully got a real sized plane.  Herbert, our driver while we were in Uganda, picked me up and drove me all the way home.  I was so happy to not have to deal with public transport and get home at a reasonable hour.  Herbert used my latrine before he headed back home – and he swept out all of the rat poop and critters!  He really is the best. 
            I thought that coming back to site after being pampered for two weeks would be hard, but it feels like I never left.  I do miss showers and toilets, but I am actually quite happy to be home.  School doesn’t start for another two weeks, so I am just hanging out and not doing much of anything.  I am starting to study for the GMAT (ew!) because I feel like I should have some sort of plan for when I enter the real world in a year.  My dad loves to constantly ask me what I plan on doing after I finish the Peace Corps even though he knows it’s a source of anxiety.  He seems to think, however, if he phrases the question differently each time, it’s okay. 
I went with Sauya to an orphanage outside of Jinja the other day.  Her friend, Godffrey, recently started the orphanage and she wanted to introduce me to him and show me around the school.  Also, she wanted me to consider donating some of the “Libraries for Life” books to the orphanage.  The school was very small and the classrooms were tiny – P1 and P2 are taught in the same room, which must get confusing/loud.  Godffrey took us to his house afterwards for a “simple” lunch, which was a small feast.  The amount of food he put on my plate could have fed a family of four.  I told Godffrey that I would donate a portion of the books to his school, but only if he built bookshelves in the next three months in order to prove he was committed to taking care of the books.  (Otherwise, I know the books would just sit in a box).  Godffrey’s neighbor came over after lunch, but she spoke no English.  She scrutinized me for a little and then turned to ask Godffrey why I was there.  He explained, and then she said something that made both Sauya and Godffrey laugh.  All I caught was “mzungu,” so I knew they were talking about me.  She kept talking and I could just catch bits and pieces – I was getting the idea she did not like mzungu.  Finally, Sauya translated for me and she said, “She told Godffrey that you better not be like the ‘other’ mzungu.”  Apparently, last year, other wazungu (plural for mzungu) came to the town and said they were going to sponsor the children to go to school.  The town fed them and gave them necklaces as gifts of thanks, but the wazungu never delivered.  Hence, wazungu kind of have a bad rep in the town of Nakirubi.  I really hope that Godffrey builds the bookshelves so that I can bring the wazungu back to Nakirubi’s good graces. 
Lastly, thank you to all those that donated to Libraries for Life – we reached our goal, and raised all of the money that we needed!  The books should be delivered in 3-6 months (I’m sure they will get stuck at customs).  I will be sure to keep you updated and let you know when the library is all set up.  Thank you, again! 

            Also, here are a few more photos from our trip:  
Leopard


Taking a snooze


Baby cheetah cubs


The awesome staff at Nomad Camp 

Toy Plane

Not the best quality photo, but you get the idea of how small the plane was!

The beach in Zanzibar


Getting thrown out of the boat is always fun - that's me with my legs up in the air!

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Ladies Love the Sausage Roll and Other Tales From Tanzania

            Brenda is still alive!
            We left Jinja on Thursday and headed to the airport really early in the morning.  The drive took way less time then we expected, so we had some time to kill at the airport.  We sat in the cafeteria in the airport and there was a food warmer labeled “Hot and Fresh” at the counter.  There were samosas and other various fried foods, including something that my sister dubbed a “hotdog pie.”  A woman sitting next to us was enjoying one of the hotdog pies, so my sister kept telling me to go get one.  Finally, my mom said, “Will you stop encouraging her! She will actually go and eat one of those things.”  I did, eventually, go up to the counter because I was hungry (and considering a hotdog pie just to gross out my mom).  Upon getting to the counter, I realize the hotdog pie is actually called a sausage roll.  Here is the conversation I had with the male cashier:

Cashier: Hello.  Do you want a sausage roll?
Me: No, thank you.  I want a vegetable samosa. 
Cashier: Oh.  I know the ladies love a sausage roll.
Me (laughing awkwardly): Uh, ya.  I’ll just have the veggie samosa.
Cashier: Ok.  Are you from the US?
Me: Yes.
Cashier: I knew it.  All the beautiful ladies are from the US. 
Me: Thanks…

            After eating my soggy, gross vegetable samosa, we headed for our gate.  We had to go through another security checkpoint and I was really mad because I forgot to pack my Leatherman in my packed luggage.  Thankfully, my knives somehow bypassed security.  My mom’s lighter, however, was confiscated.  You have to love Uganda!  We boarded the plane, and immediately started dry heaving.  Three grubby American girls were eating sandwiches filled with hot gym socks fashioned as meat.  These had to be from the “Hot and Fresh” counter.  They smelled so disgusting; I would have preferred the smell of tuna fish sandwiches.  My mom looked at us and said, “You made fun of me, but now you totally want to use some of my Viks, don’t you?”  My sister and I followed my mom’s lead, and I have to admit, the Viks worked wonders.  The plane ride was lemony fresh the rest of the way!   
            We arrived in Arusha, and spent the night at Onsea House, a cute little bed and breakfast (with amazing food!).  The next morning, we left early to go to the Ngorogoro Crater, which is about three hours from Arusha.  We met our driver, Ami, who was amazing.  He was so sweet and we immediately fell in love with him.  On the way to the Crater, we passed through a town called Kituru.  There was a chapatti stand that said Obama ’08 and Hilary Clington, but the “g” was whited out.  Awesome!  While tempting, we did not stop to buy any of the “political” chapatti. 
            We arrived at the Crater, which was absolutely amazing.  For those who don’t know, the Ngorogoro Crater is a collapsed volcano where tons of animals roam around.  Before we entered the Crater, we had a picnic lunch next to the zebras and wildebeests, which was pretty cool.  We went into the Crater, and Ami was an excellent guide.  We saw a cheetah, hyenas, lionesses, elephants, flamingos, and warthogs.  The one problem there is that you have to stick to the roads, so the animals are kind of far away.  Ami kept saying, “Don’t worry, once you get to the Serengeti, you will be super close.”  Nonetheless, the Crater was beautiful and had amazing topography.  We still had a great time and didn’t really mind that we weren’t that close to the animals – it was still far better than a zoo. 
            We spent the night at Sopa Lodge, which is right on the rim of the crater and has amazing views.  The travel agent recommended the lodge because of the views, but he did warn us that the lodge was a little dated.  He wasn’t kidding.  My sister said the furniture in the lodge looked like it was furnished from the set of the Golden Girls and/or Three’s Company.  The place actually reminded me of a ski lodge, especially because it was so cold.  The views, however, were incredible.  After dinner, we went back to the room and the maids had already come in for turn down service.  My sister was in the bathroom about to take a shower, and I went to my bed to read.  I pulled back the covers and immediately started laughing and called my sister to come check out the beds.  They had left a rubber water bottle, filled with hot water, to warm the sheets. 
            The next morning, we got up early to head to the Serengeti.  As we were heading out of the long hotel driveway, Ami said, “You guys wanted to see an elephant up close, right?”  At the side of the road, there was a huge elephant!  He was standing there and munching away on some grass.  It was so cool, I could have reached out to pet him if I had wanted.  We sat there for a while taking pictures, and then continued on.  About ten minutes later, Ami said, “Hey, want to see a lion?”  Up ahead there was a huge male lion walking in the road.  He was marking his territory by rubbing his mane in the trees along the road.  We drove right up to him, and he walked right along side our car for about five minutes.  He was probably only about three feet away.  Of course, it was a great start to our day.
            We drove for about two hours to get to the Serengeti.  Along the way, we saw tons of zebras, wildebeests, and giraffes.  When we arrived at the entrance to the Serengeti, Ami passed us off on to our new guide, Rem.  We were so sad to say good-bye to Ami.  My sister, mom, and I gave him a huge hug and we kept saying, “We don’t want to say bye!”  Robyn looked over at Rem and said, “Not that we don’t think you will be good...we just love Ami”  Rem laughed and said, “Don’t worry, I don’t get jealous.”  (Rem, if you're reading this, we miss you already!)  We headed to the Nomad tented camp, which is where we spent the next four nights.
            The Nomad Tented Camp was awesome.  The camp is set up with 8 luxury tents that are huge and have the most comfortable beds.  We arrived just in time for lunch, and we headed to the dining room tent.  When we passed the tent, I realized that it was just one long dining table.  I looked at my mom and said, “Uh oh, is it a communal dining thing?”  She laughed and said, “You’re worried that this is going to be an issue for me, huh?”  Thankfully, the other people at the camp were awesome!  There were two different families staying at the camp, and my mom played nicely.  Phew.  Plus, each tent/family had their own driver, so we didn’t have to be with strangers all day.  
            Rem took us out on a game drive in the afternoon and it was amazing.  The Serengeti was a lot different from the crater because you can go off road and get really close to the animals.  It is also calving season, so we saw a ton of baby animals!  Rem turned out to be an awesome guide, and definitely catered to what we wanted to see.  We told him that we wanted to see lions and lion cubs, and he delivered.  We saw lion cubs that were three weeks old, and they were adorable.  There were four of them, and they were playing with each other like puppies.  I could have watched them all day.  We also saw more giraffes, elephants, zebras, ostriches, etc.  We also saw another pride of lions, with more cubs.  These cubs were about three to four months old, so they were a little bit bigger.  Of course, they were still cute, and the whole pride was just sleeping in the middle of the road.  On the way back to camp, we spotted a leopard, which is apparently rare to see because they are nocturnal.  We followed the leopard around for about ten minutes because she was hunting.  We saw her almost kill a tik tik (a small antelope), but she was a little too slow.  Shucks! 
            The Nomad Camp was by far the best place that we stayed.  When we arrived back at camp, the staff handed out cool towels to clean off.  We headed to the dining tent for cocktail hour, and then went over to the campfire.  We all sat around the campfire and ate delicious snacks until dinner.  The food at this camp was amazing – I seriously don’t know how they cooked such good food in the middle of the Serengeti.  We were all in heaven.  Also, since we were camping, animals would just roam outside of our tent.  We had zebras, wildebeest, giraffes, and elephants just chilling in our camp.  Pretty cool!  Plus, the hot showers were great considering they were quasi-bucket baths.  You would have to order a shower, and someone would come fill the bucket outside your tent, which was connected to the shower inside.  Obviously, it was a limited amount of water (Robyn ran out her first time), but it was still wonderful.  A man would also stay outside your tent to refill the bucket for the next shower…hilarious.  I need a contraption like that for my house in Budaka. 
            The next three days we went out for game drives in the morning, came back for a siesta, and then headed out again in the evening.  We saw a lot of different animals: hippos, cheetah cubs, a cheetah running to catch a gazelle, and a crocodile. One morning we even had a picnic breakfast in the middle of the Serengeti.  Rem laid out lawn chairs, a table, and a huge breakfast spread.  We had coffee, egg & bacon sandwiches, granola, and fresh fruit.  Zebras, wildebeests, and gazelles surrounded us – seriously the best morning.  
Unfortunately, on the third day we were at the camp, both of the other families that we liked had left.  Frank the Tank and Susan the Snooze Button (names courtesy of Robyn) replaced them.  We immediately did not like them and their negative attitudes, and we came very close to a BIA attack.  Brenda had the “look”: nostrils flared, eyebrows raised, and lip curled.  Thankfully, we avoided any embarrassing altercations!  Plus, a couple and a family from London arrived, and they were awesome.  They definitely made up for the boring and annoying couple.  
            On our last full day in the Serengeti, Robyn and I were sitting in our tent reading during our siesta.  She told me to look outside our tent because there was an elephant literally right outside.  She decided to go next door to our parents’ tent to let them know.  She walked outside and waved to the elephant while saying, “Don’t charge” (she learned this from our guide Rem).  She turned and continued to walk to my parents’ tent.  I was taking pictures of the elephant and I see him kicking up his foot like he is about to charge.  Then he starts running after my sister, so I yell, “Oh my god, Robyn!  He’s charging!”  She looks behind her, screams, and runs into my parent’s tent.  I started cracking up laughing, and then look to see that the whole rest of the camp was watching.  One of the guides, Ali, then came by with a Land Rover to pick us up to drive us to the dining tent (so we wouldn’t have to walk near the elephant).  He looks at my sister and says, “Stay inside your tent when there is an elephant outside!”  Of course, my mom and I are still laughing because my sister’s scream was hilarious and the whole camp saw her run for her life.  (Ok, I know you are all thinking we are mean…but it was so funny!).  Rem later came up to Robyn with hands held up in an expression of “what is wrong with you?”  He was laughing and saying, “You don’t wave to an elephant, especially a male!  And stay in your tent!”  In Robyn’s defense, whenever we saw elephants with Rem, he would wave at them and say, “don’t charge.”  However, we were in a huge Land Rover and he was making a joke…
            We left the camp today, and we were so sad.  A big shout out to the staff – especially Lawrence and Reuben, they were awesome!  Our guide, Rem, was amazing, and major props for putting up with the crazy Marsh family.  At one point, he even stood up for my dad, which we know never happens when all us girls are picking on him.  I seriously did not want to leave, and I considered chaining myself to a tree.  I could go on and on about the Nomad camp – best family vacation, ever.  Sorry Turks & Caicos, you have officially been beat. 
            We are now in Zanzibar and we are going to spend the next three days relaxing by the beach.  I am so sad the vacation is winding to an end, but I have had an amazing time.   Until next time….




Here are some photos!  I'm running low on internet time, but I think this should be enough.

Robyn and me in Jinja
The kids and me
I'm "cooking" with Eva and Janet
Sauya in her "I love LA" t-shirt
Robyn with Innocent and my mom pumping water!
Robyn carrying the full jerry can
Our sweet ride in Uganda
Me at the meat market...mmmm
AMI!  We love him
Waiting to enter the Ngorogoro National Park
Pumba and Pumba Jr.
The lion we saw on the side of the road
Who says you can't eat red meat for breakfast?

He had his breakfast, we had ours.


We love Rem too!


Baby elephant...I think Robyn still likes these



Cheetah siesta

Lion yoga

Outside our tent on the Serengeti